Dato Beraia runs a shop where he and four women (there were twelve once, but marriage and other distractions have thinned their ranks) dye wool and make carpets (khalechebi) in the traditional Georgian technique and style. I knew I wanted to buy a carpet in Georgia; John Wurdeman told me about Dato and his work, and suggested I stop by when I was in Sighnaghi. Julie took me to the shop and we began talking. Dato dealt in antique rugs and carpets for many years before deciding to make them, and he knows his trade like the back of his hand. He took us to his house to show us all the rugs pictured here, and told us about the motifs and history of each one. Once I'd decided which to buy (a design with two birds on a red background, the first image here), he showed Julie and I back to the shop, and because we were interested, gave us a quick lesson in the manufacture of the carpets. I found it exciting, and ended up working for two hours. When Julie finally came back to collect me, Dato said very seriously to me that I must come back and really learn from him how to make carpets; that "some people can and some can't, and those who can, must." When my planned trip to Svaneti fell through, I took that as a sign and decided to use the extra five days to come back and study with Dato and the women. I ended up spending a very intense and very satisfying five days, starting first with little coasters and progressing to a longer table runner, all the time employing the traditional Georgian designs. Every morning Tamriko, a stunningly tall and statuesque woman with (I believe) a Russian background, made Turkish coffee on a hot plate - thick, strong and sweet, it kept me going most days without even needing to take a break for lunch, though hours were not strict and I was in any case on my own time.
Tamriko, Natia, Laura and a fourth woman whose name I never learned (she was not there often during the week of my apprenticeship) are learning and honing rare and valuable skills, in their work for Dato. They are also gainfully and steadily employed, a condition still not the norm in Georgia, though under Saakashvili's presidency (since the Rose Revolution of 2003, which Village Harmony had the opportunity to be in Sighnaghi during) the economy, especially in the tourist sector, is growing decidedly stronger. Many women in Georgia and Sighnaghi still see their place in the home, and do not always look outside it for work. These women have found a job that they love and they do it very well. It is not structured like a cooperative, but when you buy rugs from Dat'o, you are not only supporting him and his workers financially, you are supporting the work they do and sending the message that it is worthwhile.
Dato's email is Rogava777@yahoo.com.
The Rugs
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"Lambalo" style (distinctive
white flowered border) |
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The "shag" underside of
the rug depicted on the left. |
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Rug depicting Jason's Golden Fleece;
the legend is thought to refer to a Georgian technique of panning rivers
for gold with sheepskins. |
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Inside the Shop
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The hooked knife, for knotting and
cutting the wool. |
Natia at work on her loom. She's
been there two-odd years. |
Natia. |
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Laura beside the woman whose name
I never properly learnt. |
Tamriko's hand, finishing off a warp row between
knotted rows. |
Tamriko. |
Dato, demonstrating on Tamriko's loom.