November 2006

November 30 - Norah takes on Frankfurt...
A room full of turds, life shortening fried goods, and discovers the joys of Apfelwein!

This is indeed a travel website first! For one, I didn't travel anywhere, I'm still in Frankfurt. But since Norah came to visit over this long weekend I thought it might be nice to get her perspective of the city and our brilliant time together. So, without further ado, the rest of this entry is all Norah!

I am so honoured to have a guest spot on Jen’s website! I hope that my account of the weekend’s events doesn’t disappoint. First of all, I just want to dispel the illusion for those of you might be under the impression that we can just nip away to any city in Europe for a weekend. It is actually a bit of a hassle – with all the connections I didn’t arrive until about 2:30 in the morning on Friday night, having left my flat in Glasgow at 6:30 in the evening. Jen and I got our wires crossed and she ended up waiting for me at the bus stop for an hour – what a good friend! It was ok though, because during that time, she made a new friend Heinrich, which she never would have had I not been late!

It was an action-packed weekend full of culture, good food, and mulled wines of various description. If anybody does Christmas properly, it is the Germans – the x-mas market was fantastic. Jen and I felt that we had to try every culinary delight on offer, and we nearly ticked all of the boxes – not for lack of effort, we tried, we really did! But there is only so much deep fried potato one can eat in a weekend. It doesn’t help that the hot beverages take up valuable space in the stomach. We certainly put in a good effort in terms of trying all of those….Gluhwein, Glogg, Heidelbeerwein, Himbeerwein, Schlehenwein, Feuerzangen Bowle….I couldn’t tell you what they all are, but they certainly warm the tummy. And of course there is local speciality, Apfelwein (apple wine). We had planned a trip on the Apfelwein Express, a train that takes you on a tour of the city, while you sit comfortably supping Apfelwein. We waited at the stop but the train never showed up. Pants.

Between all the eating and drinking, we found some time for museums, galleries, and the theatre. We visited a lovely Picasso exhibition at the Schirn gallery, a historical exhibit on Frankfurt, and a modern art gallery, the latter of which was, erm, interesting. We tried to get our heads around the artistic merit of a soccer ball in an empty room, and a rusty piece of metal surround by lots of little turds. Jen suggested that time and effort should be what defines a work of art. I pointed out that the artist had probably put a decent amount of effort into his piece “Stacks of dishcloths, painstakingly ironed and folded”, but I still didn’t see what it had to do with art. In the end, we both agreed that modern art is slightly above our heads.

Jen was a very good host – she had bought volkornbrot, peanut butter, and soya milk, which are my staple breakfast foods at the moment. Frankfurt is a very cool city, and it was a nice respite from the constant rain of Glasgow winter. On that note, however, I feel I have to defend the city in which I reside at the moment: I want to make a correction from Jen’s Glasgow diary – Glasgow is, in fact, the greenest city in Europe, as it has the largest proportion of park space of all large European cities. So for all you park lovers out there, I do encourage you to come visit me.

November 15 (or so) - Barcelona on the Brain
Gaudi, Modernism, Monestaries and More!

First off, I have to say that my five day trip to Barcelona was the trip of a lifetime. Yes, it would have been nice to be rich in that city (ohhh, the shoes!) and stay in a beautiful penthousy type thing down by the ocean (or is it the sea?). But as things stand I'd say I was very lucky, and I definitely had a great time. So this little blurb is going to differ from the rest as I am going to break it down by day, because I did sooo much every single day that I would get everything confused if there wasn't some sort of order in all of this. Here we go:

Arrival (Nov 11): The first thing I want to mention is that Barcelona, unlike most cities I've been in so far, is HUGE and also spread out amongst lumpy 'mountains'. As a result, the effect of coming in from Girona airport (bless you RyanAir!) is very surreal. As you approach the city you feel a little like you're in Blade Runner, or some other similar futuristic movie. The road winds in between these hills - so sometimes you are looking over a valley with a huge hill on the other side, but there are also smaller hills in the valley, so that some of them reach up to, or higher than road height. I'm not explaining this very well, but trust me, it's trippy (no I hadn't been drinking). I left during the day so I could see what I had actually been looking at. Not Blade Runner at all that time, but since I could see the hills (and not just the lights on them) I realized just how much hillier it was than I initially thought. PS, I love hilly places.

Day 1 (Nov 12th) La Ribera/Barri Gotic/Picasso: Having made it to my hostel in one piece walking through some rather dodgy territory from the Estancio Nord bus station, I was not too optimistic about the prospects for wandering in the immediate vicinity of my lodgings. It turns out, luckily, I was wrong. Not only was I on the edge of an old neighborhood called La Ribera, but it turned into one of my favorite places in the whole city. Obviously from the Blade Runner thing, I am not a good describer, but bear with me. For those of you who have been to Barcelona (or any large Spanish city, I would imagine) this should sound familiar.

La Ribera consists of a labryinth of windy and narrow alleys - I think only a few of them could be justifiably called streets. As a result it is one huge mostly pedestrian area. One of the weird things about this city, which became evident in this neighborhood in particular, is that it has a very odd rhythm. You know how in Canada businesses open in the morning and close at pretty predictable times in the evening (usually 8 or 9 at the lastest for retail)?. Barcelona has either not heard of this system or doesn't care, I'm guessing the latter. Businesses open whenever they feel like it, close, reopen, and close again according to no discernable pattern whatsoever. So a shoe store might be open from 9 to 2, close, then reopen for 7 to 11:45. Sure, you're thinking they're factoring in siesta time, which is probably right. But the stores decide on their own when to siesta, so you can never be sure when they are going to be open or closed. The other thing, which I found extremely disorienting was that, when businesses are closed, they disappear!!! I'm serious (no I wasn't drinking! Ok, well a couple of times...). When stores close they also close these aluminum doors over their storefronts, effectively covering all evidence of what is behind. I think in this shot you can see where the doors would close from the top. So unless you are paying attention to what street and number a particular place is, you are unlikely to find it again. I am what might be most accurately described as a 'landmark navigator'. Don't get me wrong, I'm killer with a map (most of the time), but since I like to wander, I mainly just pay attention to what is around me and remember it the next time I am there. But that plan goes straight to hell if the landmarks you are navigating by - interesting stores and restaurants usually, when you can't see above the buildings for bigger things - keep disappearing, and new ones opening up! The effect is that you could walk down the same alley at three different times and it would look completely different every single time. I got used to this pretty quickly, but it made things like finding a nice restaurant to eat at later difficult. On the other hand, it was delightful because it was like a whole new world was right outside of my door everytime I walked out.

La Ribera is also home to some of the nicest museums and sights in Barcelona, including the Picasso Museum. After wandering for a bit it was my first stop, and should be anyone's first stop of they happen to be in the area. This museum had hundreds of Picasso's paintings and drawings spanning his entire life. Most were donated, as far as I could tell, by his estate in 1971 - so alot of the studies and sketches (including some erotic ones, oooh la la) that went on to be famous pieces, or were just him playing around, are there. It was really fascinating to see his work develop from his youth to the end of his life. And, man, it was quite a radical development that started with realistic portraits and landscapes and culminated in cubism. I don't think you could get much different. Anyhow, even though the museum was crammed with tourists and school kids (booo!) it was definitely a great experience. But, I'm just going to come out and say it - I'm not a big fan of cubism! I see where he's going, but I prefer the land/cityscapes.

From the museum I kept wandering in La Ribera and checked out Cathedral Santa Maria del Mar, which is one of the oldest in Barcelona. Then I wandered over to the Barri Gotik (across the street really), home to many government buildings, fragments of the Roman city, courtyards and places, the Cathedral La Seu, and the Dali museum (among many other things). I think it is, officially, the oldest part of Barcelona (hence the Roman bits), but it looked and felt alot like La Ribera. The Dali museum was a bit of a trip, as you can see in the photos I took. The I went to the next neighborhood, El Ravel, where the university is located ( a little dingy looking, I'm not going to lie), the modern art museum and a Gaudi museum. The Gaudi thing I never got to, or rather, I got to, but it was closed for renovations (like alot of things were), it being a low time of year for tourism. The MACBA, or Modern Art Museum of Barcelona, was a nice building. But by that time my patience for looking at squiggly lines and wire sculptures hung with trash was dwindling, and I breezed through the place and went home for my siesta!

I had a great evening eating down in Port Vell, where I finally got to see Montjuic, where I was planning to head the next day. I also got to see how the rich live, partying on their yatchs. I have to admit there was some daydreaming going on there. Also, I found out that it is best to stick to wine in Spain (duh). I made the mistake of ordering a vodka martini - a perfect start to an evening of eating and drinking, I thought - which no one seemed to know how to make. Anyhow, for any of you who end up going to Spain, I think the correct terminology is a 'vodkatini' - otherwise you get Martini premixed something or other, blech! Live and learn, I guess.


Day 2 (Nov 13) Montjuic -
While sitting on the restaurant boat in Port Vell the night before I had decided to wander up Montjuic which is (in case you didn't know) the tallest hill in Barcelona, right by the water. Most of the 1992 Olympics was held up there, but there are also lots of other interesting things. For example, there is a fort on the tippy top, several museums, some spectacular gardens, and, needless to say, some incredible views. Of course, it was very foggy/smoggy that day so the pictures of the views aren't as great at they could have been. Actually, the views were all breathtaking to me, because they finally revealed the scale of the city. Walking around in the alleys of the old city, you get the impression that the place is big, but you can't actually see anything beyond the next street. From Montjuic you can see that the city goes on forever. And not only is it large, but you can see its density too. All of this was pretty amazing to me - a student of cities. And I am pretty sure that this is the biggest city I've ever been in.

I took the Metro to Monjuic and the funicular half way up. The teleferic that would have taken me right to the top was closed for repairs so I had to hoof it. This was fine with me, as I figured that it would be beautiful and I could use the exercise to work off all the good eatin'! Also, the Fundacio Joan Miro art gallery was along the way, so no worries. Joan Miro was a famous Catalan artist, who specialized in what I can only describe as 'gestural art'. Some of it was really interesting, some of it reminded me of something I'd seen before (Nelles family, can you help me out on this one?), and the rest looked like a kid had gotten hold of some paints and big canvasses. So I guess the upshot is that I am a fan of about a dozen of Miro's paintings and sculptures, but definitely not everything.

From the museum I decided to try to get to the fort. I mean, it was supposed to be some great castle right on the top, and everyone knows that they have the best views. But I guess I took a route up that I shouldn't have, because I was kind of disappointed. The 'gardens' and land around the road up seemed overgrown and neglected, there were crazy cat people feeding strays, and everything seemed to be sort of falling apart. This view was not much improved when I finally made it to the 'castle'. I must have come up around the back, because I had to walk around the moat to get to the gate in. The walk around the walls was fine, but reinforced the feeling that things were just being let go. Where there could have been nice gardens around the walls there was just scrubby grass and concrete. On the bright side, there was lots of activity up there - a tennis club playing against the castle walls, an archery range etc. And there were extensive walking trails that were being used by hikers and bikers and runners (yeah, psychos that decided to run up the mountain, whatever!). I was feeling really gypped until I got to a viewpoint where I could see the port. I really like industry, especially to photograph, and the view of the port was impressive to say the least (panoramics, will be up soon). Another 15 minute walk around the walls and I got to the top and main gates. Turns out, unless you want to check out a military museum, there's not much else to do but look at the view up there. Nice, but not as exciting as I had hoped.

I walked down the way I should have come up, and discovered what has become my favorite garden in the whole world. I'm trying to think of how many gardens I've actually been in, and it's probably not that many, but this one tops them all. I don't know what it's called, but it's just past the Miro museum on the left, heading down. In addition to hosting a lot of Olympic events, Montjuic was also host to a world fair in like 18 something or other. Alot of the buildings like the Palau Nacional were built for the fair, and this garden was designed to showcase the work of local artists. It is a terraced garden, divided into different little sections and enclaves where each artist was given free reign to design their part. The result is a sort of labryinth of different styles where around every corner is something different. Usually these enclaves were anchored by a statue, fountain, or seating area of some kind. I think I could spend hours in this relatively small bit of park.

Next was the Palau Nacional, which now houses the museum of Catalan art. This museum is beautiful, and has an impressive collection of gothic art, and contemporary photography. It didn't blow my mind, but was definitely worth checking out - if only for the arena in the centre of the building. Oh, the parties you could have in there! Couldn't take any pictures though.

That night I had a late dinner in a nice little courtyard back in my neighborhood, after getting almost lost on the walk home. I headed to bed early so that I could get an early start as an intrepid day-tripper to Montserrat.

Day 3 (Nov 14) - Monserrat: From Hell to Heaven in 1200m
Travelling, I have discovered, is about highs and lows. You have certain expectations and they are either blown away when things are way more amazing than you ever thought they could be, or blown out of the water when things end up sucking. This was one of those rare occasions when both happened.

Monserrat is a famous monestary located in the mountains about an hour or so from Barcelona. It is mainly famous for its striking setting, and I think that the monestary has some sort of Black Madonna (not the singer) that is a pretty popular sight. My German guide book described the place as "on of the holiest places in all of Spain". So, expectation #1: this place was going to be sacred and holy, serene - a place for contemplation and meditation, where the remote and rugged setting adds to the isolation and silence and gets you that much closer to heaven. Realistic? Ok, so maybe that was a bit romantic, but not completely unreasonable, right?

I got on the train around 9 on Sunday morning - nothing was open so I hadn't had a chance to eat anything. As anyone who knows me knows, a hungry Jen is an angry, cranky, and generally short tempered Jen. This is usually exacerbated by lack of sleep, which was indeed a factor here. In short, I was not a happy camper. But, nonetheless, I was excited to get out and see the mountains. The ticket I bought included all of the transportation to and from Montserrat, admission to the monestary, plus a ticket to the funicular that gets you on the ridges above for around 18 Euros. All in all, I thought it was a pretty good deal. Anyhow, by the time we got there it was clear that the day was going to be cloudy (quelle surprise), and possibly even rainy. Nevertheless, the mountains were insane looking, and definitely looked interesting. Plus I brought my rain jacket! My tummy was rumbling, but I knew there had to be some food at the monestary, so I didn't panic. Until I got up there...

There was food alright. But also, about a million people, half of whom were either over 80 or under 5. Arghhh! I decided to try the logical approach. Ok, so I don't like people that much, especially crowds of them, and especially those who walk at like negative 5 miles per hour like those really old people! But, I reasoned, they have just as much right as me to be here, so just grin and bear it. Then I saw the lines. There were line ups for everything - apparently isolation breeds scarcity. One washroom, one cafe, one bar, one cafeteria (barf). Remember, I was starving, so the first order of business was to eat. I checked out the area and the cafeteria was really my only option. So I got in line and waited. It was moving pretty quickly, so despite my unpleasant surroundings (a cafeteria) I was optimistic. Except. Directly behind me in line was a like million year old lady who decided that she was going to get to eat/wherever she was going faster if she was plastered against my back. Everyone else seemed to grasp the concept of the line. Wait your turn, with sufficient space between individuals that no significant contact is being made between strangers (a brush or bump is ok - smothering is not). Unfortunately, this four foot antique had even less patience than me, and far fewer qualms about personal space. I gave her 'the mom look' a couple of times (you guys know what I'm talking about), increasing in severity each time. Then I asked her politely to get her tray out of my bum crack (she had wedged it between us). But to no avail! There was nothing I could do and I was trapped. Finally, after getting a cold piece of pizza, and wilty looking tomato and some deep fried cheese (??? I still don't know what those were) I got out of there and finally got to eat. All I can say is yuck. They get minus 25 starts in the Micheline guide. So really, I just picked away at my food and tried to stave off starvation. By this point I was frustrated and unimpressed. The monestary and the mountains were gorgeous, but there wasn't much else to do up there other than mill around or stand in line for something. And the train back down didn't leave for an hour. I was ready to pull the chute when I remembered the funicular to the top. I figured, whatever, this sucks, but at least if I get to the top it will kill some time and I can say that I did it. And with that, I made my way to the funicular...

Line up! Inevitably there was a line, but I was killing time, so whatever. Plus, I got to take what has become one of my favorite shots from that vantage point. You guessed it - he's checking out the lines! Anyhow, this was an unorganized line that involved a lot of jostling for position. I get that, people are impatient! Eventually people had figured themselves out and the line proceeded in a more orderly fashion. Great right? WRONG! The people behind me had similarly deficient views of the concept of personal space as the antique in the cafeteria! Don't get me wrong, it's not like I can't handle being touched occasionally - sure, whatever, that comes with the territory. But constant rubbing against and touching when I am clearly giving them enough space to stand the hell back is just mental. This is where I snapped. The people behind me were a couple - in their early twenties by my reckoning, and the woman was either pregnant or fat, it was hard to tell. Anyhow, she was behind her boyfriend, husband whatever, the whole time while he was literally pressed up against me and fondling my ass! At first, I thought it was an accident, but as I moved to give him more and more space, I kept feeling something (I refuse to speculate on precisely what it was) brushing against my posterior. I gave some sheepish looks designed to convey the idea - man, I know it's close in here, but this is as far up as I can get, mind doing your part and stepping back? - finally, I just said it. Buddy, do you mind not fondling my ass, you can stand over here (and I made some space). I didn't say it angrily, though I was angry. And then both of them burst out giggling, like they were both in on it and it was the funniest thing in the world. I almost bodychecked him down the stairs (and it was a very satisfyingly long way down), but it was our turn to get into the funicular. So I decided to try and get as far away from those psychos as possible in the funicular car, and vowed to go home as soon as I got the chance. Holiest part of Spain my ass! More like holy shit get me the hell out of here! I can honestly say, that I was as close to being in hell as I have ever been (while healthy). I absolutely HATED it.

And then I got to the top. Not only was it gorgeous, but there were three walking trails, and the crowds dissipated in every direction. I lost the nut cases on the first path, and was rewarded with some amazing views. Not only that, but my sanity started to return. After doing a quick trip on the Saint Joan path (20mins), I decided to seek out the highest point on the Saint Jeroni path (about 1 hr). The sun had started to come out and my mood improved with every step away from the mayhem. Do yourself a favour and look at the landcape shots of the Saint Jeroni trail as a slide show - it had to be some of the most unique, completely awesome, and beautiful landscape I have ever seen. It's rugged, but softened by erosion. The rock formations are strange and alien, but somehow familiar (maybe that's cause some of them looked like penises!). And it just got more and more spectacular the further I walked. The last 20 minutes was a hard slog more or less straight up, but the rest was a pretty easy walk - despite the fact that if you slipped or tripped you would fall off a mountain and most certainly die. When I finally got to the viewpoint the whole crazy day was 1000% worth it. I have never seen anything as amazing and gorgeous, and just downright stunning as I did from the Saint Jeroni viewpoint. You are dizzyingly high, and have a view more or less straight down. Around 1300m straight down. No, it's not the highest on earth I have ever been, and the visibility was not the best, but it is definitely the highest I have ever felt - ever. Under any circumstances. I don't think I can think of a time when I have been happier. It was just awesome. Pictures will never do it justice - just trust me, you have to go.

As I descended back into the hellish valley of the monestary I did so with a zen like calm. I had learned a valuable lesson about sticking with it which I can now share with you. If you do go to Montserrat, pack a lunch, skip the monestary, go and the hike. Achieve nirvana.

Day 4 (Nov 15) - Modernism
After my experience at Montserrat I was pretty drained and my legs were killing me. But, I still had a lot to do in Barcelona! The city is probably best known for the architectural influences of Antonio Gaudi, a local artist, designer, and architect that changed the face of Barcelona in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Modernism, the school of architecture he helped create, draws it's influences from nature. I think a lot of styles of art can be said to do that, but none as fantastically, and whimsically, as Gaudis.

Casa Batllo (built from 1905-07) is one of the most famous on the Passig de Gracia. The lighting on the photos I took isn't the best, but you get the idea of what the building looks like (it's just alot more colourful than the photos). The inspiration for the building was clearly the sea. There are almost no straight surfaces (except for the floors). Everything undulates and swirls like waves. The walls look like they have scales, the skylights look sort of like turtle shells, the banister looks like the spine of some sea creature, and ventilation grates like gills. Nothing is completely literal, but you can see the influence everywhere. This place is like a fantasy house. Most of the other examples of modernism in Barcelona (and there are tons, including the Palau Musicau Catalan) are not as out there. But you can see some of the same ideas playing out more subtly.

I guess you could call this my Gaudi day, because next I headed to La Sagrada Familia. There are some museums that are probably really interesting between Casa Batllo and the cathedral, but, to tell you the truth, I was museumed out, and it was too beautiful of a day to be inside for long. This cathedral has been under construction for over a hundred years, and is still not even halfway done. It was mainly designed by Gaudi, but construction was interrupted by a civil war, a depression and two world wars, so it's not like they were just being lazy. The entire project is funded by private donations, and the proceeds from the admission fee. Without a doubt it is a weird and wonderful building. Emphasis on the weird part. At first I couldn't decide if I liked it and wondered if there was a reason that Gaudi and gaudy sound so similar. But in the end, it is a marvellous place that just grabs your imagination and takes it for a whirl. You can tell from the finished bits that it is going to be quite a sight when the construction is finally done.

After a trip to the top of a spire I decided to check out Park Guell - another one of Gaudi's flights of fancy. This park is, like pretty much everything else in Barcelona, beautiful and unexpected. It is probably best known for the mosaics and ceramic covered crazy pavillions. It is on a hill overlooking the city, which makes it a particularly beautiful and peaceful place. Although, the whole city is amazing it is nice to get away from it in the parks.

My last day I just spent wandering around, shopping and doing some errands, so not too much to tell there. All I can really say is that Barcelona is my favorite place right now. It is ecclectice, surprising, unpredictable. It is colourful, warm and has a great vibe and culture to it. I think the experience would have been different if I had been travelling other people. I didn't really make any friends there - mainly cause I didn't speak Spanish and I was also a half miler on the nightlife, which starts around midnight at the earliest. Seeing as I had so much to do every day, partying till the wee hours just wasn't in the cards. I'd love to go back though with Dale and salsa the night away. I supposed there will just have to be a next time! I know that Barcelona is one of those cities that I will always be able to find an excuse to return to! In the meantime, I'm going to have to learn to dance and speak spanish!

Adios - Jen

 

 

November 5 - Glasgow and Beyond
Knackered!

Ok, I've owed you all the rundown of the happenings on my trip to Glasgow for quite some time now, so here it is. I am a slacker, that much is clear - I hope you will forgive me.

Where to start? This was my longest and most eventful trip to date (with the possible exception of Oktoberfest). Not only did I have an excellent time, but the trip was also excessively educational! For example, I learned all about cockney rhyming slang. Ok, so I didn't hear much of it in Glasgow, but Norah and I played around with it for awhile. For example - 'just chillin' at my drum' means: I'm just hanging out at my place. Don't ask me to explain, as Norah pointed out, there don't seem to be any rules. She wishes it was more like pig latin. I also learned that Scottish beer is just plain not that great. See, I have this policy. When in (insert country here), drink local beer. I mean, you can get a Corona anywhere, so you should get out and try new things! Well, I tell ya, that works well in Germany. Not so well in Scotland. So most of the locals I met were just plain bewildered by my choices of beverages. I have since revised my philosophy. When in (insert country here), find out what type of alcohol they do best, and go with that. In the case of Scotland, that would be, ummm, Scotch! Didn't have any in a bar, but I did manage to visit a distillery and also bought a bottle. So, I guess you could say that, as a result of this alcoholic revelation, I am now a better and more well-rounded person (and will never be accused of drinking a NED beer again).

Alright, now to the touristy stuff. I have to be honest, Glasgow is not my favorite place. Norah insists that I should have seen the city in the sunshine, which I totally didn't seeing as it was dull and damp the whole time I was there (except the unplanned last day). It's not that I didn't like the city - I did. It just had a very different vibe from anywhere else I've been so far. It's definitely more working class (which means they know how to party!), and while it has old parts, it doens't feel that old for some reason. From a planning point of view it feels kind of thrown together - the streets end in right angles and t intersections like other European cities, but there are new buildings sort of thrown in with the old ones that don't really feel right for some reason. There's a sort of dissonance about the place. And, as I was walking around Frankfurt the other day, I realized that one of the things that I was really missing was the green. Glasgow is not a particularly green city. There are parks, but not that many. Granted, I wasn't there for that long, so I could be wrong.

One of the things that I really enjoyed about Glasgow was the art. At the Hunterian Gallery there was a great collection of old masters - with some of my favorite Whistlers. Also, there was a great exhibit of art nouveau pieces called Doves and Dreams with the art of Francis MacDonald and J Herbert McNair. It's really some beautiful stuff. Ok, well, apparently the 'Glasgow Style' developed by these artists, as well as Charles Rennie MacKintosh is significantly different from Art Nouveau, but it looked pretty similar to me! But wait, beyond the Glasgow style there are a whole bunch of very interesting Scottish painters. The Kelvingrove Museum (newly renovated, and very interesting) has a great collection of paintings by the "Glasgow Boys". One of my favorites is this one by Cadell, which you kind of have to see big - but you get the idea:

I guess that it is fair to say that I had a great time at these two museums (the modern art one was just ok, though you can see some pictures of that in the photo galleries section).

As for the rest of the city, Norah was an excellent tour guide of the bars and restaurants. We ate well at the Mother India Cafe (delicious Indian), drank at the Left Bank (I think that's what it was called) on Gibson Street, and partied to a very modest hour on Ashton Lane - which is the coolest lane of bars I have ever seen - where Norah was hit on by the youngest guy in the bar (22), while I cooled my heels learning about the history of Guiness (sipping my aweful Scottish beer!) with the oldest guy there (I think he was about 70!). The good news is that the strapping young lad thought we were both 22 (what a sweetheart!). The bad news was that, even though he was quite persistant in insisting he was "a mature 22", his friends looked like they were 17! Norah tossed him back into the sea, and we went home to crawl into bed together (haha, that is so not what you think! Get your minds out of the gutters you silly pervs!!!).

The reason we went home at a decent hour was because we were both completely knackered, and we had to get up early to climb Ben Lomond the next day. A Ben is a hilly sort of thing that people climb for the fun of it, and have a jolly good time looking out at the view from. I am certain that if the weather was better I would also have had the priviledge of seeing the view, but instead I had to settle for a tour of an island, a tour of a distillery (single malt people!), and a jaunt around Stirling. I say settle, but it was nothing of the sort. We took a great little wooden boat to the island of Inchcailloch, with a captain with zero people skills who grunted that he would be back to pick us up (yeah right!). Turns out this island is now a nature preserve, but it used to have a nunnery, and people used to go there to live a life of deprevation and contemplation. Woohoo. They also used to bury people there, if they remembered to. See, Scottish funerals, we were told, got so out of hand that they would occaisionally forget to bury, or even lose, the body! So the state stepped in and banned drinking at funerals, which, of course, didn't work! I think they solved the problem by stopping the practice of burying people on the island, thereby eliminating the need for a designated boater and staying closer to the supply of scotch. Plus, I'm sure that the people who were deprived and contemplating made for super duper party poopers anyway. Anyhow, the Loch looked splendid from the top of the island, and we were treated to an amazing rainbow that lasted the whole time we were up there.

Next we went to the Glengoyne distillery and went on a tour and had a tasting. This was especially nice after our sort of damp day. Norah and Jim (our friend and the guy with the car) were not scotch fans at the start, but may have been converted. Fingers crossed. I hope they weren't too converted cause I had to leave the bottle I bought earlier in Glasgow with Norah, otherwise it would have been confiscated by the evil security officers at the airport. If they think that they are going to make travelling safer by taking my scotch away they should think again! Anyhow, after the distillery we checked out Stirling castle, but the light was failing, the castle was closing, and us girls had a pressing social engagement (read: party) to get to, so the visit was short but sweet. A huge thanks to Jim for being a fellow tourist, gracious host in his country, and our driver. Without him I never would have been able to see the almost highlands! Also, he was full of great ideas of where I should go on my next trip and has inspired me to come back and see the rest of the beautiful country. I will have to seeing as I ate nothing deep fried, and didn't even get to peek up a kilt (so much to is left to do!!)!

So much else happened which I either can't remember, are inside jokes, or I prefer not to divulge! It was a great trip, so fun to hang out with Norah who is one of the funnest people on the face of the earth! I hope I can return the favour when she comes to visit me in a couple of weeks. Maybe I will get her to do a guest spot on the site. Hope everyone is well, and I will update you all soon on my trip to Barcelona (I'm leaving on Thursday!). Cheers!


 


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Norah takes on Frankfurt
Barcelona on the Brain
Knackered!
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