November
5 - Glasgow and Beyond
I had loads of fun with my bonny Norah
Ok, I've owed you all the rundown of the happenings on my trip
to Glasgow for quite some time now, so here it is. I am a slacker,
that much is clear - I hope you will forgive me.
Where to start? This was my longest and most eventful trip to
date (with the possible exception of Oktoberfest). Not only did
I have an excellent time, but the trip was also excessively educational!
For example, I learned all about cockney
rhyming slang. Ok, so I didn't hear much of it in Glasgow,
but Norah and I played around with it for awhile. For example
- 'just chillin' at my drum' means: I'm just hanging out at my
place. Don't ask me to explain, as Norah pointed out, there don't
seem to be any rules. She wishes it was more like pig latin. I
also learned that Scottish beer is just plain not that great.
See, I have this policy. When in (insert country here), drink
local beer. I mean, you can get a Corona anywhere, so you should
get out and try new things! Well, I tell ya, that works well in
Germany. Not so well in Scotland. So most of the locals I met
were just plain bewildered by my choices of beverages. I have
since revised my philosophy. When in (insert country here), find
out what type of alcohol they do best, and go with that. In the
case of Scotland, that would be, ummm, Scotch! Didn't have any
in a bar, but I did manage to visit a distillery and also bought
a bottle. So, I guess you could say that, as a result of this
alcoholic revelation, I am now a better and more well-rounded
person (and will never be accused of drinking a NED beer again).
Alright, now to the touristy stuff. I have to be honest, Glasgow
is not my favorite place. Norah insists that I should have seen
the city in the sunshine, which I totally didn't seeing as it
was dull and damp the whole time I was there (except the unplanned
last day). It's not that I didn't like the city - I did. It just
had a very different vibe from anywhere else I've been so far.
It's definitely more working class (which means they know how
to party!), and while it has old parts, it doens't feel that old
for some reason. From a planning point of view it feels kind of
thrown together - the streets end in right angles and t intersections
like other European cities, but there are new buildings sort of
thrown in with the old ones that don't really feel right for some
reason. There's a sort of dissonance about the place. And, as
I was walking around Frankfurt the other day, I realized that
one of the things that I was really missing was the green.
Glasgow is not a particularly green city. There are parks, but
not that many. Granted, I wasn't there for that long, so I could
be wrong.
One of the things that I really enjoyed about Glasgow was the
art. At the Hunterian Gallery there was a great collection of
old masters - with some of my favorite Whistlers. Also, there
was a great exhibit of art nouveau pieces called Doves
and Dreams with the art of Francis MacDonald and J Herbert
McNair. It's really some beautiful stuff. Ok, well, apparently
the 'Glasgow Style' developed by these artists, as well as Charles
Rennie MacKintosh is significantly different from Art Nouveau,
but it looked pretty similar to me! But wait, beyond the Glasgow
style there are a whole bunch of very interesting Scottish painters.
The Kelvingrove Museum (newly renovated, and very interesting)
has a great collection of paintings by the "Glasgow
Boys". One of my favorites is this one by Cadell, which
you kind of have to see big - but you get the idea:
I guess that it is fair to say that I had a great time at these
two museums (the modern art one was just ok, though you can see
some pictures of that in the photo galleries section).
As for the rest of the city, Norah was an excellent tour guide
of the bars and restaurants. We ate well at the Mother India Cafe
(delicious Indian), drank at the Left Bank (I think that's what
it was called) on Gibson Street, and partied to a very modest
hour on Ashton Lane - which is the coolest lane of bars I have
ever seen - where Norah was hit on by the youngest guy in the
bar (22), while I cooled my heels learning about the history of
Guiness (sipping my aweful Scottish beer!) with the oldest guy
there (I think he was about 70!). The good news is that the strapping
young lad thought we were both 22 (what a sweetheart!). The bad
news was that, even though he was quite persistant in insisting
he was "a mature 22", his friends looked like they were
17! Norah tossed him back into the sea, and we went home to crawl
into bed together (haha, that is so not what you think! Get your
minds out of the gutters you silly pervs!!!).
The reason we went home at a decent hour was because we were
both completely knackered, and we had to get up early to climb
Ben Lomond the next day. A Ben is a hilly sort of thing that people
climb for the fun of it, and have a jolly good time looking out
at the view from. I am certain that if the weather was better
I would also have had the priviledge of seeing the view, but instead
I had to settle for a tour of an island, a tour of a distillery
(single malt people!), and a jaunt around Stirling. I say settle,
but it was nothing of the sort. We took a great little wooden
boat to the island of Inchcailloch, with a captain with zero people
skills who grunted that he would be back to pick us up (yeah right!).
Turns out this island is now a nature preserve, but it used to
have a nunnery, and people used to go there to live a life of
deprevation and contemplation. Woohoo. They also used to bury
people there, if they remembered to. See, Scottish funerals, we
were told, got so out of hand that they would occaisionally forget
to bury, or even lose, the body! So the state stepped in and banned
drinking at funerals, which, of course, didn't work! I think they
solved the problem by stopping the practice of burying people
on the island, thereby eliminating the need for a designated boater
and staying closer to the supply of scotch. Plus, I'm sure that
the people who were deprived and contemplating made for super
duper party poopers anyway. Anyhow, the Loch looked splendid from
the top of the island, and we were treated to an amazing rainbow
that lasted the whole time we were up there.
Next we went to the Glengoyne distillery and went on a tour and
had a tasting. This was especially nice after our sort of damp
day. Norah and Jim (our friend and the guy with the car) were
not scotch fans at the start, but may have been converted. Fingers
crossed. I hope they weren't too converted cause I had to leave
the bottle I bought earlier in Glasgow with Norah, otherwise it
would have been confiscated by the evil security officers at the
airport. If they think that they are going to make travelling
safer by taking my scotch away they should think again! Anyhow,
after the distillery we checked out Stirling castle, but the light
was failing, the castle was closing, and us girls had a pressing
social engagement (read: party) to get to, so the visit was short
but sweet. A huge thanks to Jim for being a fellow tourist, gracious
host in his country, and our driver. Without him I never would
have been able to see the almost highlands! Also, he was full
of great ideas of where I should go on my next trip and has inspired
me to come back and see the rest of the beautiful country. I will
have to seeing as I ate nothing deep fried, and didn't even get
to peek up a kilt (so much to is left to do!!)!
So much else happened which I either can't remember, are inside
jokes, or I prefer not to divulge! It was a great trip, so fun
to hang out with Norah who is one of the funnest people on the
face of the earth! I hope I can return the favour when she comes
to visit me in a couple of weeks. Maybe I will get her to do a
guest spot on the site. Hope everyone is well, and I will update
you all soon on my trip to Barcelona (I'm leaving on Thursday!).
Cheers!
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